One of the best and worst parts about exploring this country through the units of the National Park Service is going to out of the way places and seeing life in the smallest of small communities surrounding places like John Day Fossil Beds National Monument.
I say best and worst because there are always good reasons why remote places are hard to get to. Often the terrain is tough to travel through with limited services and even fewer comforts. But there is a beauty to be had in the quiet. There are staggering views to be found off the beaten path. And how can you say you have seen this country if you ignore the small places?
John Day Fossil Beds NM is located in an off the beaten path, small place. When most folks think of Oregon, they think of Portland and the coast, of mountains and trees. Central Oregon, however, is arid almost to the point of being desert.
After spending weeks in Washington in cool temps, getting to Dayville and experiencing the 100-degree heat was a bit of a shock. Still, it felt good to warm up, even if it meant running the AC in the camper.
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John Day Fossil Beds NM preserves one of the richest areas for fossils in North America. The area was home to large volcanos, which not only help preserve fossils from several different eras but also helped create a variety of gorgeous landscapes, included painted deserts and badlands.
Getting to John Day Fossil Beds NM
Getting to John Day Fossil Beds NM is a challenge. The nearest major airport (Portland) is four hours away. It is nearly three hours from the nearest Interstate and the drive is not easy.
There is not much in the way of gas stations, so pay attention to your gas tank. This is especially true since Oregon’s laws regarding pumping your own gas in rural areas have changed, but many of the gas stations do not have pumps which allow you to pay at the pump. This can be a problem if you need gas after hours.
The drive through central Oregon is great for a motorcycle or sports car, with plenty of twists and turns, but towing our camper was tiring. Still, the drive is unique and beautiful.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Fish House Inn RV Park in Dayville. The sites were large, easy to back in and had plenty of grass. It is also walking distance to the local restaurant (the Dayville Cafe), the local store and the gas station.
The Dayville Cafe has great home cooking as well as some tremendous pies! I am a big fan of rhubarb pies and their raspberry rhubarb pie did not disappoint. Bonnie tried the marionberry pie, which has a tasty hybrid blackberry grown only in Oregon.
The local store, however, is pretty spartan in its selection. While it has staples, if you need specifics, you are better off getting groceries before you head in.
Exploring John Day Fossil Beds NM
There are three units of John Day Fossil Beds NM spread out across central Oregon and that poses some of the difficulty in visiting this site.
The main visitor center is located just north of Dayville in the Sheep Rock Unit. In order to get to the Clarno Unit from Sheep Rock, it is 81 miles and it takes two hours to drive, which takes you through Picture Gorge. The Painted Hills Unit is 45 miles from the Sheep Rock.
The Clarno Unit is located about 18 miles off Oregon Hwy 19, the main route from Interstate 84 to Dayville. If coming from this direction, I would strongly recommend stopping on your way in.
We did not visit the Clarno Unit on our way in because we didn’t expect there to be any RV parking at the unit. After doing the long and tiring drive once, we just didn’t have the desire to do it again. We found out later that there is some RV parking at the Clarno Unit and we wish we had stopped on our way to Dayville.
There are a few short trails and a picnic area there, plus the Palisades, which are cliffs formed by the remnants of volcanic mudflows. One of the cool features is a trail where you can see actual fossils in the rock.
Did I mention we are bummed we didn’t stop?
Painted Hills Unit
It may take a bit to get to this unit of the national monument from the visitor center, but it is one of the most visually striking places we have been to.
The Painted Hills reflect the massive geological changes which took place in this area over the years. The area was surrounded by a great number of active volcanos which would erupt often, creating red, gold, tan and black bands in the soil.
There are several short trails in the area. Being it was midday, hot and there is very little shade out there, we opted for the Painted Cove Trail.
The trail is brief, only a quarter-mile, but it leads you up close and personal with the painted hills.
There is a ranger station with a picnic area and restrooms on the way in, but otherwise, facilities are limited. We did enjoy eating a picnic lunch in the shade, however.
Sheep Rock Unit
The main unit of the park and home to the visitor center, we really enjoyed visiting the Sheep Rock unit.
The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center serves as the visitor center and houses extensive exhibits on the fossil beds in the area. We were glad we were able to speak to a ranger, see the video and walk through the exhibits before we headed out on the trails the next day.
Since this is the only indoor visitor area, I suggest stopping here in the afternoon if visiting in the summer. While this area may boast a dry heat, it can still be REALLY hot on a summer afternoon. Take advantage of that air conditioning!
Just across from the Paleontology Center is the Cant Ranch. What started as a 700-acre ranch in 1910 grew into until stretched nearly 6,000 acres until the park service acquired the land in 1975.
While the ranch house still stands and you can tour it, the hours are very limited due to staffing shortages. Still, you can walk the property and see how this family thrived in this arid climate.
Just down the road are two additional locations, including a tremendous hike.
The Foree area has two brief trails which highlight the area’s geology and are worth a stop, especially if you aren’t up to hiking in the Blue Basin area.
We decided to get up early and hike the Blue Basin Overlook Trail, a 3.25-mile moderately strenuous loop, but, wow, are we glad we did.
When you get to the trail, be sure to head to the left. Trust me on this. While the left side has some pretty steep switchbacks, there are a few shaded spots to take a break. Even at 8 a.m., the sun was cooking us and temperatures were already in the mid-80s. If you head to the right first, you’ll be going uphill with absolutely no shade.
Still, the hike was more than worth it. The views of the blue-green claystone formations are spectacular and the hike down was relaxing. It is truly one of the most unique hikes we have been on, geology-wise.
John Day Fossil Beds NM is a perfect example of the reason we enjoy visiting the units of the national parks so much. We would have never come to this corner of the country otherwise, which is a shame because it was so worth the trip.
While Dayville is remote and lacks a lot of modern conveniences, it is a charming town with some friendly folks.
Scenery-wise? Wow. This place is chock full of rugged beauty, not to mention some good hikes.
In all, this is one place you should make time to visit.